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Artisanal Dairy Products as a Challenge for the Promotion of Well-Being Tourism in Rural Areas

Published: September 14, 2017
By: Mihailo Ostojic 1 and Ljubiša Topisirovic 2. / 1 Faculty of Agriculture, University of Belgrade, Zemun, Serbia and Montenegro; 2 Institute of Molecular Genetics and Genetic Engineering, Belgrade, Serbia and Montenegro.
Summary
The artisanal dairy products including cheeses are obtained in Serbia by spontaneous fermentation of milk from cows, ewes and goats or their mix. They contain a large number of lactic acid bacteria (LAB) depending on the ecological localities in which they are manufactured. The production of these cheeses in households is mostly preserved in the mountainous areas. Intensive research is performed in the world on the characterization of LAB isolated from farmhouse cheeses produced in the traditional way. It opens the possibility of obtaining high-value artisanal products with a declaration of a specific geographical origin. This knowledge may enable the accession of standardization and organized production of artisanal cheeses. Such approach would contribute to the opening of small businesses in rural areas. Among others, it could play an important role in establishment of high-quality household tourism in the region where these cheeses and other dairy products are manufacturing. 
 
Key words: artisanal dairy products, lactic acid bacteria, rural areas household tourism.
Introduction
 
According to various records and traditions, people living nowadays in Serbia were engaged in cattle breeding even before the arrival to the Balkan Peninsula. The Balkan Peninsula including Serbia is a distinct region of southeastern Europe from bio-geographical and cultural points of view. Most of Serbia is covered by mountain ranges running from north-west to south-east. The climate is moderate continental. In the northern part and on the mountains, winters are frosty and snowy, while summers are hot and generally dry. The inland vegetation consists of woods typical for Central Europe (oak and beech, and in the mountains, spruce, fir and pine). The landscape provides habitats for very distinctive vegetation including numerous endemic species. Moreover, Serbia is already recognized for its significant vascular plant diversity (Horvat et al., 1974; Jovanovic et al., 1986; Matvejev & Puncer, 1989; Stevanovic & Vasic, 1999).
 
Having settled on the Balkan peninsula in the new regions, they proceeded with breeding cattle. The first settlements sprang up where there was the highest requirements for the realization of their most important occupation – farming and especially husbandry. Development of the production of cheese throughout history is certainly the result of the importance and role that milk and milk products in the diet of occupied population and the tendency of people to provide adequate storage for them the most important ingredients. In this regard, production of cheese has taken a central place to conserve biological and energy very valuable milk components, primarily protein and fat. By making cheese is practically possible effective and long-term storage of the most important components of milk, and also obtained a class of high-quality and sound products that significantly contributes to the variety of food, especially in winter. 
 
The Balkan Peninsula harbours a large variety of traditional, spontaneously fermented foods made of vegetable as well as milk. The fermented milk products are made of cow’s, ewes and goats milk or their mixture. Among them white-pickled, soft and semi-hard cheeses are dominant. In addition, in Serbia “kajmak” (an autochthonous product made by fermentation of milk fat) is also produced (Jokovic et al., 2008) plus specific “sour milk” similar to yoghurt but with higher acidity. Artisanal fermented milk products are part of the heritage of Balkan countries. Manufacture of these homemade milk fermented products has been conducted in a traditional way for centuries throughout the Serbia. Thus, processes of preparation were passed down from generation to generation and have not been significantly influenced by modern food technology. Large quantities of different artisanal cheeses and other specific fermented milk products are made in households of this region without adding any known starter culture. These products are still manufacturing in small rural households immediately after milking without any special treatment of milk. At many places, farmers very often prepare a rennin by themselves, too. Furthermore, at many places especially in rural regions throughout Serbia the traditional cheese manufacturing was retained up to date.
 
Besides other traditional values, among which spa tourism takes an important place, Serbia has a set of various traditional food and liquors made of milk, fruits and vegetables, such as fermented milk products including cheeses, liquors made of different fruits and various pickled vegetables. All of them are prepared according traditional way how people did for centuries. Moreover, these products are manufactured at particular geographical rural sites including villages at mountains. Furthermore, collecting and homemade processing of wild products like forest fruits, mushrooms and medicinal herbs is also present for years in rural areas of Serbia. In addition, very often authentic and organically produced food and wine could be found in monasteries dating from middle age period. Taking together, all these products could become important focal points of tourist interest. Thus, it could promote rural areas of Serbia as the provocative and attractive touristic targets. Bearing in mind the climate as well as landscape facilities it these regions, they could be a basis for various touristic branches as eco-tourism, gastronomic tourism, camping tourism, ethno tourism, hunting and fishing tourism. 
 
To reach these goals it is very important to make an online service from which most customers can get relevant information. Such approach will ensure feedback information from tourists about their impression of visiting that could improve services and broaden an interest for new customers. In addition, it could help in eventual establishment of rural accommodation enterprises and the change in style of household tourism (Busby & Rendle, 2000; Melo et al., 2016; Peña et al., 2014).
 
 
Artisanal milk products
 
The largest number of artisanal cheeses is named after the place where they are manufactured. Therefore, such places very often become famous. In many countries, the production of these types of cheeses is the most preserved in the mountainous areas in small farms. These products are in volume production less important, but its quality can still play a role in increasing the assortment of domestic dairy products. This is the reason why research is performed in the world on the characterization of lactic acid bacteria (LAB) isolated from farmhouse cheeses produced in the traditional way. Using such LAB opens the possibility of obtaining high-value artisanal cheeses with a declaration of a specific geographical origin (Bulut et al. 2005; Caridi, 2003; Prodromou et al., 2001; Torres-Llanez et al., 2006). 
 
Region of Balkan Countries is distinct geographical area in Europe with long experience in manufacturing traditional fermented dairy products in households at specific ecological localities. Since most of these products are made from non-pasteurized milk, the composition of the “natural starter” depends on the presence of LAB in the raw milk and environment. Specific climate of such places contribute to the formation of a specific epiphyte microflora that from pastures directly enters milk and dairy products consequently (Casalta et al., 2009; Ouadghiri et al., 2005; Poznanski et al., 2004). Accordingly, these fermented artisanal products contain specific LAB that exists in the ecological localities where they were originally produced. Complexity and varied sensory properties of traditional artisanal cheeses manufactured from raw milk depend on their microbial community (Cogan et al., 1997). Non-starter lactic acid bacteria (NSLAB) constitute complex microbial associations that are characterized by the occurrence of various species and many biotypes as a result of a number of selective conditions persisting during the manufacturing process and different ecological niches (McSweeney et al., 1993). 
 
In contrast to LAB from commercial starter cultures, NSLAB withstand the hostile environment in cheese during ripening and represent the predominant microflora in ripened cheese. Furthermore, proteolytic and lipolytic enzymes from different species of NSLAB are better adapted to harsh conditions present in cheese where they influence the development of the texture and taste of the final product. Most studies report the increased levels of proteolysis and enhanced flavour intensity in cheese where NSLAB have been added as adjunct lactobacilli together with the usual starter cultures. The contribution of NSLAB to flavour development can be species or even strain specific (Ferrazza et al., 2004). 
 
The NSLAB community is composed mostly of mesophilic lactobacilli such as Lactobacillus paracasei, Lactobacillus plantarum, and Lactobacillus curvatus (Mannu et al., 2000; Beresford et al., 2001). Nevertheless, pediococci, micrococci and leuconostoc could also be present (Callon et al., 2004; Manolopoulou et al., 2003). 
 
The NSLAB dominates the microflora of long-ripened cheese for most of its ripening period. They certainly have potential to have an effect on and contribute to cheese maturation. On the other hand, seasonal changes also affect the cheese ripening ( Caridi et al., 2003; Fox et al., 1998). 
 
Serbia towards its natural characteristics has an exceptional potential for development of agricultural production. Although characterized by areas that are destined especially for the development of livestock production, to date these conditions were not fully put into effect. Processing of milk at the production site is particularly significant for mountainous areas. The largest part of the milk is processed into various types of cheese and the autochthonous cream known as kajmak. The milk processing in households are different and rely on a tradition that has lasted for generations. In the world only a small number of indigenous cheeses has exceeded its limit and is produced in its original form. Other cheeses have only local significance. In Serbia there are also a large number of varieties of local cheeses, and only some of them are known to dairy market.
 
In Serbia are preserved numerous artisanal dairy products, given that the livestock for centuries constituted the basis of food production and feeding of population. The technology of these products is generally simple, tailored to modest possibilities of households and depends mainly on the climatic conditions in the mountains and nomadic herding, which is still represented in mountains regions. Among the best local indigenous products are cheeses. (Ostojic & Topisirovic, 2006). 
 
Many artisanal cheeses are produced in rural households in wooded mountainous areas of Serbia. These environments are an attractive place for tourism development, too. The main characteristics of these cheeses are ripening period of 30-60 days in the anaerobic conditions. Cheeses are white to white-yellowish specific colors and textures, and a variable chemical composition depending on the season when they are produced. Knowledge of all aspects of cheese manufacturing within these areas of Serbia is very important to achieve and maintain uniform high quality of these products. Research of original artisanal cheese production technology opens up the possibility of making cheese on a semi-industrial or industrial level. In addition, it would give the possibility to make geographical protection of best cheeses for placement on the market, since their production takes place in a certain limited geographical area (Ostojic et al., 2001). 
 
Among artisanal cheeses in Serbia, Zlatar cheese is one of the representatives of high-quality white cheese that is kept in its own brine, and is made mainly from cow's whole milk in households on the mountain Zlatar after being named. It is characterized by a high content of fat and classified in the group of full-fat cheeses. Full-fat Zlatar cheese is of exceptional quality, primarily due to the grass pastures that are located at a high altitude and climatic conditions of the mountain Zlatar that has a large impact on the quality of milk, as well as the traditional way of production in households (Ostojic, 2006; Terzic-Vidojevic et al., 2007).
 
Production of Golija cheese in many households has long tradition. Many households are organized production and ripening in special homemade wooden small cottages in the nation called “mlekarnik”. Some households in the summer are using cow's milk mixed with sheep milk to produce Golija cheese. By determining the natural characteristics of the mountain Golija, growing conditions of dairy animals, treating the milk after milking and recording the technology of cheese production standardized indigenous technology for Golija cheese production was introduced. This created the conditions for the application for geographical protection of Golija cheese (Ostojic, 2010; Terzic-Vidojevic et al., 2014). 
 
Kopaonik cheese is one of the less studied artisanal cheeses, typical for the area of central Serbia. Isolation and characterization of lactic acid bacteria for the development of technological processes created the conditions for the organized production of this cheese (Ostojic, 2000). 
 
In addition to white cheese in brine, Pirot cheese local name „kackavalj“is a hard cheese and brand of eastern Serbia. It is known that the shepherds on Suva and Stara Planina founded the production of hard cheese at the end of the 19th century with the aim to improve the economic contribution of their own sheep breeding. In ripened cheese dough has a pleasant flavour, brittle and flake with a spicy taste. The dough of ripened hard cheese is always soaked with grease and has a specific structure that is the result of a specific mode of traditional production (Ostojic et al., 2011). 
 

Lactic acid bacteria
 
Lactic acid bacteria (LAB) are the most numerous group of bacteria that are in direct relation with the man. LAB are very important inhabitants of the digestive tract (GIT) of man, who held the proper functioning (probiotics). On the other hand, they are present in large numbers and in human food sources of plant and animal origin. Lactic acid bacteria are used for centuries for the production of fermented food (Leroy & Devuyst, 2004). They inhabit different niches and occupy a key position in the production of fermented dairy products. BMK contribute to the nutritional value of the product and significantly affect the organoleptic properties of the product due to the synthesis of aroma producing substances. Thus, each type of BMK exerts its activity in certain stage of cheese production or ripening and contributes a distinctive taste, aroma and structure of the product (Olson, 1990; Smith et al., 2005). Besides, they are producers of bacteriocins (antimicrobial peptides) and exopolysaccharides that expose a positive effect on human immune system.
 
Bearing in mind the importance of LAB in many aspects of human activity, research on the molecular genetics of these microorganisms has greatly expanded in the last ten years. However, so far the main attention has been paid to genetic investigation of the LAB strains routinely used in industrial processes. Much less is known about the genetic organization of LAB isolated from specific natural niches. During the last twenty years it has been demonstrated that major sources for new strains of LAB could be artisanal fermented milk products (Cogan et al., 1997; McSweeney et al., 1993; Randazzo et al., 2002; Topisirovic et al., 2006). 
 
This is exactly the reason why fundamental research of LAB by using molecular genetics and genetic engineering are at a high level. The accumulation of knowledge ranges from phenotypic and genetic characterization by sequencing complete genomes of various LAB of different origin (Makarova et al., 2007; Pedersen at al., 2005; Wood & Warner. 2003). 
 
The studies of LAB, originating from traditional fermented sour milk products, obtained in households at specific locations, allows establishment of collection of these bacteria, whose fundamental microbiological and molecular genetics studies allow selection of strains that are specific for particular region. In addition, these studies allow selection of LAB strains with clearly defined technological and/or probiotic properties. Thus characterized LAB provides the basis for the construction of starter culture to obtain local products with the declaration of a specific geographical origin.
 
In this regard, the microbiological and molecular genetics studies were performed on indigenous LAB isolated from fermented dairy products that are produced for centuries in a traditional manner in the households of Serbia at several locations (Figure 1).
 
Artisanal Dairy Products as a Challenge for the Promotion of Well-Being Tourism in Rural Areas - Image 1 
 
Figure 1. The sites of cheese sampling.
1. Region Karpatska Srbija, 2. Region Valjevo mauntains, 
3. Region Stari vlah, 4. Region Kopaonik ravni, 
5. Region Stara Planina, 6. Region Vlasina plateau
 
Molecular determination of LAB isolated from these products (cheese, yogurt, sour cream, sour milk, butyric starter) showed that there is considerable diversity of these bacteria in such products. In addition, the analysis of these LAB showed that they have specific useful features that can contribute to improving the quality of products proizvoda (Golic et al., 2012; Jokovic et al., 2008; Jokovic et al., 2014; Lozo et al., 2007; Nikolic et al., 2008; Topisirovic et al., 2011). 
 
Genetic and biochemical analyzes showed that, in spite of fact that they belong to the same species, isolated LAB can synthesize different bacteriocins, exopolysaccharides or have the ability to aggregate. This type of research was conducted during the analysis of LAB in the Zlatar cheese with the aim of establishing the conditions for the protection of geographic origin of this cheese. The succession of LAB species was followed during ripening of this white cheese prepared in sliced for 60 days. It was found that there is a significant succession of LAB species during ripening. In addition, the results showed that in this cheese exist in the community lactococci that produce nisin and several kinds of lactobacilli, which synthesize aromogenic substances or products exopolysaccharides. Thus, such combination of LAB provides a good basis for the construction of specific starter cultures for Zlatar cheese production on industrial scale (Veljovic et al., 2007). 
 
The need for collection, and the detailed study of LAB isolated from artisanal cheeses, reflected in the fact that they are so far analyzed products, obtained from cow, sheep or goat milk, represented a very heterogeneous population of LAB. In addition to there is considerable diversity of these LAB in different ecological regions throughout Serbia. Besides, many of these isolates of LAB have very interesting properties that could be used in functional food (Topisirovic, 2014). 
 

Conclusion
 
In conclusion, the objective of work in this area should be an analysis of specific strains of LAB isolated from artisanal fermented milk products of Serbia. The formation of a national collection of LAB isolated from artisanal products of Serbia is interesting from scientific scientific point of view. However, it is also interesting since it gives the possibilities of application of these bacteria in the construction of stable starter culture with clearly defined technological properties. On the other hand, using indigenous starter bacteria would prevent the loss of microbial diversity and preserve the authenticity of the product in a particular geographic area. In addition, it is extremely important to determine the possibility of preserving indigenous technology for the production of cheeses with special reference to mountain areas such as Zlatar, Zlatibor, Golija, Stara Planina, Kopaonik and alike. A set of such knowledge may enable the accession of standardization and organized production of specific, artisanal cheeses. For the realization of such objective in the practice, it is extremely important to create an organization and education of local producers of artisanal cheeses. Such approach would contribute to the opening of small businesses, especially in rural areas. At last but not the least, such approach could play a part in establishment of high-quality household tourism in the region where such cheeses and other dairy products are manufacturing.
 
 
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Authors:
Mihailo Ostojic
University of Belgrade
University of Belgrade
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